The Chieftan of the O'Sullivan Clan of Munster, Conchobhar Ó Súilleabháin, serves on the Clans of Ireland Committee on Traditional Irish Dress.
Stair / History
From the earliest times, the two predominant garments worn in Ireland, were the Léine (pronounced Layna) and the Brat (pronounced Brat/Brot). The Léine was an ankle length linen tunic nearly always of a yellowish colour, hence the term 'saffron shirt', much used by various late medieval English commentators. A most ancient of garment, the Léine is recorded in our earliest texts (8th century, but believed to have been copied from even earlier sources), down to the early 1600's. Through these many centuries, the only significant change occurred in the early 1400's when the large and long 'hanging sleeves' formed part of the garment. These distinctive sleeves lasted until the end of the Léine in the early to mid-1600's.
As a partner to the Léine, the Brat was just as old. There is some confusion over the shape of the Brat in its earliest days. It was most likely of a rectangular shape and slowly evolved into its unique semi-circular shape by the time of the Norman invasion. It was confused with another early style of mantle called a Lumman, but this died out early and does not figure in later traditional Gaelic attire. The Brat featured decorative fringing all around its border. The straight edge was the part worn over the shoulders and this area that concentrated around the head and shoulders had extra rows of fringing and usually longer. This added warmth to that part of the body. When pulled over the head during times of rain, the fringing hangs down in front and keeps the rain off the face.
While the Léine and Brat were the standard items of clothing for the Gaels, they also wore trews (Gaelic Triúbhas, pronounced as the English word). These Triúbhas were tight fitting from the foot to the mid-thigh. Above this was a separate, looser piece of cloth, often of a different colour. The lower, tighter section was often made of a simple check or tartan.
Over time, two more garments were added to the ensemble, the Ionar and the Cóta Mór. The Ionar (pronounced inner) was a unique Irish style of jerkin made very short and with sleeves open on the underside. These open sleeves were to allow the large hanging sleeve of the Léine to fall through. The sleeves of the Ionar served no other purpose but as decoration. The lower half of the Ionar contained pleating or lappets all around. This added to the decorative appeal. The jacket body and sleeves were decorated with lines of piping or fringing, sometimes both. The most decorative ones have medieval style foliage instead with a mere hint of what is termed 'Celtic' decoration. It also appears on occasion, with a small stand-up collar. The Ionar came in a variety of colours. The Cóta Mór (pronounced coata moar) is rendered in English as Great Coat or Big Coat. The Cóta Mór reached to about the knees and also had the open sleeve design to accommodate the hanging sleeves of the Léine. It was used in wintertime instead of the Ionar. The open sleeve of the Cóta Mór was a little different in that the opening was not underneath but at the back of the arm. In this way, it gave more protection to the wearer in cold or windy weather. The skirt of the coat often had gores added for the benefit of the pleated skirt of the Léine.
There can be no doubt that the Léine and the Brat have formed the core elements of Gaelic attire, for men, women and children. The Léine should always be of a yellowish colour or various shades from white, buff, oatmeal, cream and brownish yellows. Although many of these colours/shades can be attractive, the aim was to achieve, if possible, a pure bright yellow. The Brat on the other hand could be any colour including stripes, checks and tartan. The sewn-on fringing of the Brat was more often than not of a different colour or multicoloured.
For hundreds of years the English sought to rid Ireland of these 'barbarous fashions' by bringing in many laws against them. The English hatred of all things Irish finally won when the Léine was slowly squeezed of its life in the early 1600's and replaced by English attire.
It should be clearly noted herein, and fully understood, that while the Irish have always worn tartan, they never wore kilts. Any checks or tartans used in Ireland adorned the Brat and the Trews only. Occasionally, simple checks were used as minor decoration on the Ionar. Kilts are purely Scottish and even then, of a late introduction. Kilts, as they are known today were first recorded in Scotland in the early 1700's. They derive from the earlier Belted Plaid, itself a simple adaptation of the ancient Brat.
The iconic Gaelic cloak or mantle, known as the Brat, has as long a history as the Léine. But unlike the Léine, the Brat comes in a wide variety of hues. Our Bratanna (plural) are made to the highest standards, copying the established medieval style. The Brat is made in three pieces, or strips of cloth, sewn together, giving a semi-circular shape. Such methods of construction are not necessary today, as we have wider looms than those of the medieval period. However, we stick to the ancient ways as we have found that the extra material, though it be little, and the extra sewing helps the garment to hang close to the body and less likely to 'fly away' in the wind.
The Brat has a row of fringing, usually of wool, but sometimes of hemp or linen, added all along the outer border. The fringing is thicker (and usually longer) on the straight edge, at the part which sits along the shoulders. A design that shows its true effect during inclement weather when it acts as a protector against the elements. Any colour can be found on the Brat including speckled cloth, stripes, checks and tartans. All our Brats are hand-made and individual.
The Léine, an item of traditional Gaelic attire, used for century upon century. A bright, beautiful and easy to wear garment, it is the archetypal image of the medieval Gael culture. The Léine is an ankle length linen tunic which is worn at knee length with the help of a belt. Our Léinte (plural) continue the centuries old tradition. Made to the highest standards, our Léinte use only pure linen. We have a variety of shades, but mostly they are of a yellow colour, as tradition dictates. The distinctive hanging sleeve is replicated from original sources, and we do not use Renfair versions with 'drawstrings' (as often found in the USA), on the arms as these are not historically correct. Also, you may notice some other producers of the Léine insist on making the sleeve opening at the wrist. The sleeve opening should start at around the bend of the elbow.
Wear one of our Léinte with pride, knowing that you are historically correct and carrying on an ancient Gaelic tradition.
The traditional Irish Léine was hitched up to knee length and held in place by a belt, known in Gaelic as a Crios (pronounced "kriss"). The traditional Crios was made of hand-woven wool of several colours and shades. Although no images have survived showing the Léine worn with the woolen Crios, there are some extant Criosanna (the plural form) kept in the National Museum of Ireland and the earliest date to the mid 1600s. These are unlikely to have been the first of them to be made and they are no doubt of a much earlier vintage. The earliest surviving Irish belt was made of horsehair and has the same type of tasseled ends as we find on the colourful woolen Criosanna of many later centuries.
The Irish Crios survived well into the twentieth century, worn by the people of the Aran Islands. These Criosanna are three metres long and are worn wrapped around the body with one ending left hanging. The other end is simply tucked in to the layers wrapped around. It therefore has no knots or ties but simply held in place by itself.
A wide variety of colours are found in the Irish Crios and we have many examples of this ancient technique. Some have loose fringed ends, and some have decorative knotwork. While the three metre long Crios is the archetypal form, we have some shorter lengths which are used as children. Shorter Criosanna also serve as hand-fasting cords and as such are becoming very popular, both in religious and secular weddings. All our Criosanna are hand-made.
Presumably simple leather belts were also worn with the Léine. We occasionally have some of this type for sale.
Criosanna do not have to be worn with traditional clothing. They look fantastic worn with modern clothes including jeans, casual trousers and skirts.
The Gaelic Ionar (pronounced "inner") is worn over the Léine and is usually made of stout wool. It is made very short compared to modern jackets. The sleeves are opened on the inside which is done to allow the sleeves of the Léine to hang free. The Ionar is often, though not always, elaborately decorated. The most common type of decoration consisted of contrasting-coloured strips in a series of lines. Another common decorative form contained flowers, vines and swirls. Some basic Celtic designs may also have been incorporated.
The ionar of the Hereditary Chief of the Name, GarraíEoin Ó Súilleabháin, presented by master craftswoman, Helena Stackpoole.
Gúna / Dress
The traditional Irish woman's dress, known as a Gúna (pronounced "goonah") is a well-tailored garment consisting of elaborate pleating. It was worn over a simple linen Léine. The Gúna was made of wool and presumably could be of any colour but red or green were preferred.
There are written descriptions of this garment as well as one medieval example found in a bog. The written descriptions match the bog find, known as the Shinrone Gown. The dress is tight fitting in the bodice with a very low neckline which was designed for the purpose of showing part of the Léine underneath. It was closed by means of a leather or wool cord.
We know that the Gúna was worn with the Léine underneath as we have pictorial evidence plus the sleeves of the Gúna are of the same design as the male Ionar, the purpose being to let the sleeves of the Léine hang down.
